Monday 28 December 2015

Shahjahanabad Shooting Diary- Day 5&6-Breakfast Walk with Anubhav Sapra


  Breakfast walk of Shahjahanabad with Anubhav Sapra (Delhi Food Walks) was done in two phases- spread over two days. 

Since, it was breakfast we had to meet in the morning at Metro station, as we started our 'very serious' work- of shooting breakfast joints at Shahjhanabad. First thing we had to do was to take a rickshaw to Chitli Qabar- Haveli Azam Khan for Haji Shabrati's Nahari. This is the second generation running the shop. Even "the New" at Shahjahanabad usually is around fifty years old, most of the shops, especially the eateries are all at least 60-70 years old. Nahari is meat stew cooked on slow fire and legend has it, that they used to cook it the entire night and hence came the thickness and the flavor. Haji Shabrati's Nahari is one of the best (of buffalo meat), you can ask for butter and bone marrow on top!
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Post-Nahari session, we moved to a nearby shop for tea. Anubhav informed us that the tea shop owner's daughter is pursuing PhD from DU in English Literature, and 'recently has just come back from a conference in US', added the proud father! 
Anubhav got some Tabarak ki Roti from nearby Diamond Bakery and we had our 'chai-waye'.
In the same street there are a few shops selling meat. We tried to take a few shots and they got angry and shouted at us for not asking for permission (must have been illegal so we came out). 

We moved out of the street and moved towards the street where Karim's is (main Jama Masjid road). When you walk further in the street, beyond Kareem's there is Haleem degh/ cauldron being cooked in the open. The cook had just put it on 'dum', but on our request removed the numerous clothes, opened it and did some more mashing for our camera. He told us to come after couple of hours. Meanwhile, we went to Shyam Sweets for Bedmi poori. There were less people so the owner agreed to talk to us. Most famous is his Matar Kachori, as some Jains (sizable number of traders in the wholesale markets of Chandni Chowk) do not even eat Aloo, thus peas/ matar became popular as a filling for samaosa/kachori, etc. He recommended a few shops in Daryaganj, popular for different snacks. Near Shyam Sweets stands Daulat ki Chaat vendor. Milk is cooked until the cream is left, and thus name comes from its richness- daulat! 

In the morning, one can also spot various flower vendors selling garlands mostly of marigold flower for ritual/ pooja purpose. We went to check Lotan Chhole Kulche wala in the opposite side a bit further from Nai Sarak, but he had left. In the meantime, Anubhav received a call from Haleem wala that he was going to open the degh! We hurried our pace and reached Gali Kababian (Kebab vendors' street). Interestingly, a board hanging on the other side of Karims' said, "Outsiders' not allowed". The degh was opened in front of us, as we shot the entire procedure of adding water, checking consistency, adding various spices, etc. The entire degh was shifted from the burner with a thick rope. As people saw us, there gathered a big crowd and started discussing the haleem, its uniqueness and the family which had been doing business here. Once, it was cooked he gave us all plates and did not even charge us for it! 
Anubhav suggested having haleem with biryani (new for me!) and again the kind gentle soul, Haleem seller ordered it and refused money for it. Haleem (buffalo meat) was actually very good. And all of us got so full that we decided to postpone the rest of the walk and breakfast places to the next day!

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Next day we met Anubhav and four foreigners at the Chawari Bazar Metro station and started for Shyam Sweets. Since, we had had our fill of Shyam Sweets we just walked around a bit. Simran with her dogs sits on the opposite street and sells 'datun' sticks, and uses the same sticks to guide her dogs! 

From Shyam Sweets we walked in the opposite lane in the search of Lotan Chhole Kulche wala, and this time we found him with a big crowd around him. This is the second generation selling chhole kulche here. Chholas were a bit spicy for us but kulchas were thin, soft and non-oily as they usually are (as compared to bhaturas!). He also added some butter for us. And gave the water of the boiled chick peas separately. From here he goes and sits outside a school.



After sharing a plate of Chhola Kulchas we moved to Karim's for Nahari and Paaye (mutton). This nahari was not as thick as we had on the previous day, and same for paaye. Both dishes are usually known for thick gravies. It was less spicy and average, probably better suited for foreigners. Post nahari we went to taste different kind of breads/ rotis at Rahmatullah hotel- Lachha paratha, sheermal, etc. There you can also see rows of homeless people waiting for food. Often if somebody wants to do charity, money is given to hotel people to feed certain number. For example, food is Rs. 20 per person, so you can feed five people on Rs. 100!  
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   Next we walked to Bazar Matia Mahal for Taufiq's Biryani. But, on the way got some good photos of biryani being cooked on order (catering) as the same day was Eid e Milad un Nabi (Prophet Mohammad's birthday). Taufiq's biryani was very good, and from the inside lanes we came out at Chitli qabar and took rickshaws for Fatehpuri Masjid, Chandni Chowk. 

At Fatehpuri, we got off and gorged on some delicious Chaina Ram's different sweets like Karachi Halwa. We wanted to speak with Chaina Ram's owner but he refused citing some legal cases going on (water pollution!). But, we spoke with the guy frying samosas in desi ghee. Everything is cooked in desi ghee at Chaina Ram. He makes  desi ghee pooris in the morning.  
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 From Fatehpuri, we crossed to the opposite lane for Amritsari Lassi. We tried namkeen, Rose- badam and a few others. All had generous dry fruits and right mix of sweet/ salt! 

Next we walked in the busy lanes of Khari- Baoli/ Spice market. Here we saw many other groups of foreigners getting guided tours. Anubhav took us to the terrace of an erstwhile haveli of British times in Gadariyon ki Gali. Stairs were narrow and often dark, but the view from the top was worth it. It gave a bird's eye view of the entire bazar and of the nearby Fatehpuri Masjid as well.  


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Embedded image permalinkEmbedded image permalinkEmbedded image permalink      We went inside a few spice shops, and found the masalas for Chicken tikka/ Mushroom Tikka/ panner tikka to be very expensive and came out. Foreigners crowded these shops! Most of us were either sneezing/coughing because of the smell of the spices in the entire area. Some of the spices we had never even had heard of (one of the spice's name was Chhail Chhabili)!

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From Spice market, where we lost some one or the other many times, we finally walked back to the main Chandni Chowk lane. A betel-leaf/ paan wala (selling at the same spot since 40 years!) made paan for our camera guys"with qimam"! One of the tourist remarked that same kind of leaf with different kind of spread is also eaten in Taiwan. Our photographer, who is quite an expert on North-East narrated different kind of 'paans' that are eaten as a daily routine thing. Both our camera guys had different effects, one complained of a headache, the other went into "a zone"! 
 Next we went to Chhola Bhatura shop and all of us Indians shared one bhatoora. Foreigners had a single bhatoora each! By this time, we all were craving for tea, especially the headache-wala colleague. We went to a tea shop which was also famous for its milk cake. The tea was good and so was the cake. But, opposite the tea shop was a Man's saloon. We shamelessly kept staring at the men having facials/ massage and hair cut. Our Videographer asked for permission and shot some on camera. Men were actually very sweet to agree to this invasion of their privacy!    
 Post- tea we took a battery rickshaw to Gurudwara Sisganj Sahib. It was the time for Lunch Bhandara now. 


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 The entire operation is efficiently run mostly, on the basis of Volunteers. At first, we gave our shoes to pretty young girls, who took our dirty shoes like some precious thing, without making a face and gave us a token. We walked inside, 'Path'/ sermon was going on. We took a few shots (nobody objected, everybody was very friendly, no prior permissions required!). Then, we walked outside where the 'prasad'/ halwa was being distributed. From the Gurudwara building, Anubhav took us to another buiding,  where langar is distributed and cooked. This building was built and added to the main complex much later. We entered a small room with two massive cauldrons, one was empty and hot water was boiling in the other cauldron. Senior Sardarji explained that Halwa is cooked here, and the bigger kitchen is towards the inside. 

"The Kitchen" was a big room. There was a massive roti machine, where an old Sardarji was putting kneaded atta balls and those balls were being flattened, and roasted by the machine in dozens. There were also some women manually flattening the chapatis, and then they were being cooked by three people on the big, long tawa. On the side were really big cauldrons of dal and chawal. From the kitchen as you move inside, the plates are being cleaned and wiped by some volunteers, and as you keep walking you see a huge dining hall with rows of people eating hot, healthy food. 

One of the volunteer Uncle, when I asked him, 'do they get this many people everyday?', said, 'it depends if its a holiday or week day or weekend. Less people come for dinner. Families come for shopping at Chandni Chowk and come to have food here as it is free.' But, he complained about those who leave unfinished food. The left overs are then packed and given to them. He said, food items- dal/ atta everything has become expensive. People should not waste food. He showed us some polythene bags he was carrying in his pocket, used for packing leftover food. Some people even find it difficult to take off shoes and socks. He (in his sixties, and pointed to other Uncles) said, "Hum bhi to khade hain, kaam kar rahe hain, (We are also standing and working here), so why can't you?"  

All of us were overwhelmed by the entire 'Langar operation' and the service of the volunteers. Everybody was extremely friendly and nice. A great end to an interesting day of food, as we bid goodbye to the foreigners and Anubhav, and to each other here. We were all very tired but felt good after witnessing such a selfless gesture of human kindness. 
World is not such a bad place, need proof? Go visit a gurudwara and Volunteer!  

Video Link- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vLfN4bIUipM&t=168s 

Wednesday 23 December 2015

Shahjahanabad Shooting Diary- Day 4- Chandni Chowk Markets-1


We decided to shoot some wholesale markets that Shahjahanabad is famous for on Day 4. From Chandni Chowk Metro station we walked towards the Red Fort side and just walked inside the lane which said "Bhagirath Palace." This market is one of the oldest for electronic goods, wiring, lights etc. It is extremely crowded at most times and difficult to walk around especially when you have two guys carrying big cameras and a tripod bag! You have to jostle/ push make your way to go inside. Everybody is in a hurry. A smaller auto which ferries goods almost drove on my foot! 


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 Once, you move inside, it also has some medical shops. One can find most medicines and related medical stuff- wheel chairs, trolleys, and God knows what not in the market. In winters, all kinds of heaters, geysers, electric hot water bags were being sold. The shops selling lamps, chandeliers told us not to take photos, so we kept walking.

Interesting was to see a hole punching machine on a electricity board adorned with 'nimbu-mirchi'. Our tryst to make the mechanical machines more human, by extending our sacred-ness to it. (The way we do it to our vehicles- trucks/ autos/ cars/ two-wheelers with Mata ki Lal chunni, etc.)

As we walked past various thela walas and other people, observed some girls having an animated discussion to buy dental floss and other dental stuff. My fellow cameraman wanted to request one of the girls to pose with the floss, but I decided against it (he even suggested in case they refuse I should hold the floss with my mouth open and "pose" with it!).

We came across Begum Samroo's 18th century Haveli built in Greek and Roman style (wife of French mercenary Walter Reinhardt), now just a building with lots of small shops inside and badly maintained. Almost being used like a godown. It was difficult to get any shot from the ground so we asked a rickshaw wala bhaiya if there was a place where we could get a better view of the building. He directed us to a stair case of an opposite building. We thanked him, and moved to a narrow, dingy staircase. The building had various small shops photocopy, medical equipments, electrical goods, etc. on different floors. We just kept climbing the stairs until we reached the top floor. 
From there we took some shots from a narrow passage between a wall and massive AC unit. A man came to ask us who we were, what we were doing etc. and then directed us to another staircase. Now we were on an open terrace, stinking of urine but open with a clear view of the entire area around us. 
I was just shocked to see the number of telephone network towers all around me at little distance from each other. Some monkeys playing on electrical wires, thelas putting more load on them, etc. And on the terrace of Begum Samroo's haveli some young girls were washing the dishes!

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 Amongst these historical structures, numerous AC units, they are such an eyesore, apart from the dangerously dangling wires all over the city and monkeys and birds sitting on them!

From here, we walked towards the lane opposite Kumar cinema, towards cycle market. But, first is Camera market on the same road. Both photographer and Videographer were fascinated to see the variety of cameras- old and new, accessories, etc. We spoke to a shop owner who had put on display some old photographs and some very old cameras. He said business has gone in loss since mobile cameras have come in vogue. So, I asked him how does he survive, he said his son has his business and he just sits in the old shop.

Walking past these camera shops we came across a Jagannath Mandir before the cycle market started. Old Delhi hardly has any Oriya population, so it was very odd to see this temple here. Astrologer/ priest sitting outside with a big board looked friendly so we decided to speak in length with him. He was also from UP.  On the ground floor was mandir and on the first floor there were people staying. The building was around 300 years old, well maintained. It also had a well in the courtyard. Priest told us that for pooja rituals etc. they use the water of the well not of the tap!

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The tiles were Victorian embossed like we saw at Jain temple  and the mirror work behind the idols and on the ceiling was quite extensive and exquisite. There was space around the main sanctorum for parikrama. There were Rajisthani influences which were visible. Priest said temple was maintained by people around the area, traders, some Oriyas visit it too. On the same day that they take out the Puri Jagannath procession, here around Shahjahanabad they take out the idols' procession.

Further from this, there were temple on every second step, if not on the ground floor then on the first floor. Cycle market earlier sold cycles and its different parts, now mostly children's cycles, etc. were being sold.

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 We had started in the afternoon and light was fading so, we decided to call it a day as next day was early morning Breakfast walk.

Monday 21 December 2015

Shahjahanabad Shooting Diary- Day 3 Jain Mandirs


Shahjahanabad has some famous Jain Mandirs. The ones we were supposed to shoot were located in the bylanes of Kinari Bazar, which itself is one of the lanes at Dariba Bazar. I had gone there to ask for permission for shooting and I got lost! People directed me to different temples, but not to the ones I was looking for! I had to ask Sohail Sir for directions. The directions were- first look for a Khurchan (scraped milk sweet) shop, then Gajjak shops, then a couple of Chaat walas and further a spice shop! I followed the directions and reached an interesting street with beautiful European inspired arches and architecture. The caretakers and Secretary sahab of Indraprastha Teerth Trust were pleasant, looked at my documents asked my name twice but gave me the permission to shoot there after the next two days!

The Sahapedia team and I had decided to meet at Jama Masjid Gate no. 3 and from there we walked. Often getting distracted by jewelry at Dariba and beautiful laces at Kinari Bazar, but reached the temple at the appointed time given to us.      
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But, before we could begin the temple shoot we started shooting the street's architecture. There were a few men who were standing there who started explaining about their houses and the temple. The houses were well maintained and in good condition. The temple priest Mishra ji who was our guide for the day told us to first visit the smaller temple in another lane. So, we went to Shri Shambhunath Jain Shwetambar Mandir first. In a very narrow bylane where only one person could walk at one time, we saw this beautiful entrance which reminded us of the Nawab Rukun ud Dawla mosque's design at Chawari Bazar.

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 These temples are maintained by the Swetamber sect of Jains (the ones who wear clothes, as opposed to Digambars who practice nudity)! Both the temples are considered to be old and trace their history to the Mahabharata period. Maintained and sustained by the Jewelers and also referred to as "Johri temples", you can actually see the gold, silver, diamonds, crystals on the idols!


 Once we enter the first floor Mandir through stairs, there are a few charts etc. with details of 22 rules to be maintained in the temple. First idol is of Lord Bhairon, the protector.  The open Verandah covered by jaal, led to three rooms with idols of Mahaveer and other Teerthankars. There were paintings on the walls in which Vegetable dye was used, colors were still bright. Roof was of sandstone and floor of marble, Mishra ji said no iron was used in the building and it kept cool in summers and warm in winters. The roof hoisted a flag which is changed once every year on 24th Dec. with rituals and pooja.  The walls had Victorian tiles embossed with flowers.




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Embedded image permalink  From here, we again went back to the bigger temple at Naughara, Sumatinath Jain temple. Here, there were 84 rules to be maintained (not to talk/sit/ show back to idols etc etc) . Mishra ji took us to the backside of the temple which was in bad shape and he said around the Mughal time that area housed army animals. The European arch of 19th century was still intact. We came back to the main temple and from the ground floor office where we had to keep our bags went to the first floor. This was far more grand, and as Sahapedia colleague remarked,  "a Visual assault on senses". Not a single inch was left empty, every space had some design, paintings (Rajasthani style mostly) depicting different Teerthankars, Jain version of their Devis  (for eg. Hindus have Durga, Jains have Padmavati), but Lakshmi was seen in her original avatar at both the temples (jewelers need Lakshmi!). The doors were carved beautifully, silver on wood frame. There were three rooms again, two with Mahaveer on both sides and the main one in the middle had other Gods/ Teerthankars all bejeweled with diamonds, pearls, gold and silver. The outer courtyard was getting painted as marble here was getting yellow. Mishra ji showed us the brilliant ventilation plan on the back designed in such a way that the natural light and air could pass at all times. On the second floor, were mostly massive paintings with glass work, depicting different times and incidents from Mahaveer's life. There were some miniature paintings at the back as well. Ceilings again were beautifully painted with different images. On the outer courtyard is a statue of Parasnath in black flanked by two white idols on the side. Mishraji said the white idols had come from Pakistan, post- Partition and since this was a major temple in Delhi, these idols were given to this Mandir. On the southern wall, there were no idols, as he said it is considered inauspicious to have idols in this direction. Ravan was also depicted in one of the paintings as he is also considered as one of Teerthankars. There were utensils which were used to bathe idols and clothes to clean and wipe them chandan crushers for pooja. Mishraji said, the temple also has a dharamshala where visitors can stay but it is strictly for Jains only.      
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Mishra ji himself had come from Amethi, UP. A traditional Congress bastion, a Congress supporter himself. Earlier, his uncle was a priest here. He admitted Jainism is a very difficult and strict religion. He was happy with the respect he got, and the work he was doing as a priest. He was given a house near temple premises. One should live a simple life, he said.            
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Embedded image permalink From here we came back to the ground floor office, by this time Secretary sahab had woken up and demanded to see all the footage. Satisfied, he then took us to the basement where Pappu Ram was doing all the stone cutting, designing and everything else. He had come from Rajasthan some years back and had been working now for two years in the basement under Secretary Sahab's supervision. His passion for his work was visible as he spoke. He also made amazing ginger tea for all of us. They invited us to visit them on 4th Jan for lunch when they take out a procession with a palanquin, big elephants and other things that were under cover are all used then.
Embedded image permalink We came out of the temple and straight went to this beautifully built and maintained 19th century house. The drawing room cum office opened into the street and showed a collector's house. We were surprised at the open doors which gave a full view of the room and everything inside it. The room was full of beautifully framed paintings, other artifacts and luckily the owner, Atam Aggarwal agreed to entertain us. He told us, his father Ram Charan Aggarwal (he has a road named after him at ITO) was a freedom fighter, and showed a book on him with pics of Gandhiji, Nehru and other major leaders. Most of this collection was his own. A generous man, (brother of JP Aggarwal, Congress leader), he offered us tea but we declined and promised to visit him for chat and tea when we would come for the Mandir Yatra next.
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Smart Phone & I



World for me was divided into people who either had those big work phones and carried the entire social media and their office on it and the other big population which only received phone calls and messages on the device. I was happy being in the other category of simple, laid back, non-smart phonewalas, where I would know about the world through TV news, or when I logged in on my laptop and not be constantly bothered about who "liked" what, or who "outraged" on which issue on Twitter!(Sorry, do not go beyond- Twitter, which is personal favorite and rarely go on Facebook!) I had not known the joys of Whatsapp yet!

I had a phone with buttons as I have fat fingers and always believed it would be difficult for me to manage the delicate touch screen of the phone, to keep rubbing my fingers and type on it too!Imagine, phew! Also, history of losing numerous phones and being accident prone generally always stopped me from buying expensive phones!

But, now all that was going to change! I got in gift a smart phone on my birthday! I do not understand why they call a phone Smart, and in comparison to whom? The user? Is it able to do things more efficiently and better than the user! Gosh, I can do without that kind of comparison and judgement! Imagine losing to your own device!

 Then to download various different apps which made me wonder how I survived without them! The delight in asking "bhaiya (well, you never ask behenji!) where is this address" or trying to only get radio and not various music apps (I was happy letting AIR choose songs for me, and not making my own playlist) or trying to decide on restaurant or cuisine without the help of apps!Oh, the joys of getting lost will not be the same again! On the brighter side, the apps can remain and I may not use them is a huge possibility!

It just feels like ending of an era, losing touch with humans and getting sucked into a world of cold technology! Most of my friends say they have become more close thanks to various technologies of keeping in touch being available! But, what it also does is, it stops that phone call that you may have made and now you just finish it with a message! The feeling of listening to another person's voice, wishing them on their special days, but well, they might be busy, lets just wish with a message!

The "getting started" process is another hassle! After getting the number converted into post-paid the service provider will go to my mother's house to check if I ever lived there! Then, I will have to choose the plan according to my usage of phone calls/ message/ internet, etc. I am being asked to make so many decisions in this, and they still call the phone- "smart"!Huh, Irony died a thousand deaths when they invented "SMART phones"!


UPDATE AFTER SIX MONTHS

Yes, it has been almost six months since I got converted from a simple to a smart phone user! (Has nothing to do with my IQ here). Had a few issues early on. Phone got a virus and all my numbers got mixed up. Maid was now a senior Prof. So, when I called my maid to ask her, "Kaam par kyun nahi aayi?"Call actually went to a senior Prof, who I had to apologize profusely, and now I completely avoid due to embarrassment.
On the birthday of Mamu (Uncle), I sang entire "Happy Birthday" song to my Plumber! And weirdly, he did not even stop me, because he also was somebody's Mamu and thought his niece was calling! My beautician's number got swapped with my colleague! And driver's with a dentist!
After many such mishaps and embarrassments, now I check every time I call! So, if I call Deepa, wait for Deepa to confirm at least twice to confirm she is Deepa and not someone else!

I went through some horrible time in personal life and close friends' on Whatsapp kept almost 24 hour vigil and took care virtually from different parts of the world. Other side of it, some old school friends' discovered me and now send selfies, religious and friendship messages to respond to! I thought I had left them in my school! It is difficult to ignore people on phone. But,  then you can avoid the call and just send a message instead! Also, on the brighter side discovered some good friends' who share poetry and discuss other interesting issues all, on whatsapp.

Students' who would bunk classes think they can get extra class and tutions on Whatsapp! Some even ask, Ma'am we had an exam but, we saw you were online at 2am! Hello??
Apart from friends', some young cousins started treating me like their personal counselor and wanted advice after 45th break up! Uncles and cousins wanted regular updates on life on Whatsapp! You may ignore friends' but, as Barjatya Uncle has taught us, one cannot ignore family!  

My most favorite part was Twitter. I could share random thoughts and photos with strangers! My followers grew from maybe 10 odd to almost 100 thanks to my smart phone!Yayy! Although, I should be ashamed that I may ignore friends', reluctantly keep in touch with family but am very happy that some strangers know me through my tweets! Strange world we live in!!

I may listen to music on Gaana and Saavn apps, but not beyond this. I still like getting lost and asking people for way.

Only that now I depend on my phone so much that since its keyboard is not working today, I feel like a handicap! It is almost like an extension of me now. My fingers I fear with all the rubbing on screen may have become even shorter. The doctors who warn about those wrist/ thumb pains may all be true but such joys of being connected. Hey, I am a Smart phone user now!

(Based on true events!)



Thursday 10 December 2015

Shahjahanabad Shooting Diary- Day 2 with Sohail Hashmi Sahab


We finally got the Heritage Walk by Sohail Hashmi Sahab on camera. I had to get up and start from my place at 6.55am (I do not leave my house at this hour unless I had to go to school or travelling! Of course, had to make an exception for this!!).
We had decided to meet at Turkman Gate, one of the gates still standing, restored and in good condition. Meanwhile, as others were still on their way, Sohail Sahab, me and our Sahapedia colleague made a quick dash to Holy Trinity Church. Along the way, he remarked on the fake Dargah of Turkman Shah Bayabani (after whom the Gate is named).  According to him, he is buried somewhere inside Shahjahanabad, but here, they are making money in his name. 

At the Church, the Christmas preparations had started and cheerful, energetic 90 year old Georgina, like always showed us around, and like always asked me about my details! She also told us that the Church organised a Qawwali programme to mark its anniversary, few days back. (Qawwali for Jesus, why not!)  Sohail Sahab remarked on the sacred and profane pulpits (Bible is read out from one and accounts discussed from another)  . At Kashmere Gate, Chandni Chowk, Fatehpuri, Turkman Gate churches first prayer service is still done in Urdu. (Shahjahanabadi tradition still carrying on).

By this time our friends from Sahapedia had assembled and three of SPA students had also joined us for the walk. We went inside the Turkman Gate compound gate with our cameras, as guard made a gesture of salute/salam to Sohail Sahab. We fixed our equipment and made a circle around him to listen to him as traffic honked around us. He described a legend according to which, somebody had told Firoz Shah Tughlaq and his town planners to extend the city up to Turkman Gate to include Shah Turkman Bayabani's dargah, and the city would survive till eternity! This part largely was wilderness and consisted of a burial ground. One of the reasons that one neighbourhood still is known as "Mohalla Qabristan"(an oxymoron!) and we can still find many graves in the area.

From Turkman Gate we walked straight towards Teliyon ka Phatak to spot the Lakhauri bricks wall falling apart from an erst while Nawab Muzaffar Khan Haveli, now neighbourhood of  Oil pressers caste. On the street, bikes and scooters zoomed past us, wondering loudly 'TV wale hain/ journalist hain" etc. as one goat decided to chew on a colleague's delicious shawl!

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Further down the street, we went to recently pre-fixed with "Shahi"- Kalan Masjid, where construction was going on. A mosque from pre- Mughal period by Juna Shah Telengani showing some Tughlaq era style arches, covered by bright Green paint, Marble flooring and granite tiles, etc. now. Mosque was built on a high platform, mostly on the ground floor shops were built, whose rent helped with the maintenanace. Kalan Masjid meaning big, became Kali masjid for the neighbourhood walas, as the mosque lost its grandeur until it got painted in bright green and other colors.     
We also spotted some really healthy cats at Bulbuli Khana (literally place for bulbuls, named after a girls' school which was moved from here to Asaf Ali Road),  where we stopped for tea. 

 From there, we walked towards Sitaram Bazar, trying to trace Haksar Haveli on a street where Jawahar Lal Nehru's barat came and he had married Kamla Nehru. Kayasths and Kashmiri Pandits were very good at adapting languages and were part of Mughal courts, lived here. Kids on the street looked at girls', then at Sohail Sahab and then at the building, surprised some smirked and even commented on the interest' in the old, falling apart buildings!

From the Mosques we went to temples (Chaurasi ghanta/ 84 bells), and havelis of Kucha Mai Dass where some of Delhi's wealthiest lived (Shri Rams, for instance). The rich since, have moved out and their havelis are in bad condition. Beautiful Gothic art still prominent on the gates, shows the European influence on architecture. 

From the narrow streets, passing through a 'Chhatta' (terrace on the first floor joining the two ends of property and providing passage for public) we reached towards Gali Magazine, where gunpowder was stored in the post-1857 period. Some of us were actually shocked to see fat sheeps whose fat had gathered at their bums! There used to be a famous "Akhara" here too.
Embedded image permalink
We came out at Chooriwalan and turned towards Masjid Nawab Rukun ud Dawla, one of the most beautifully carved mosques. Small mosque (for Hanafis) with flattened Roman style arch over Mughal cusped arch, showing the acceptance of British domination. The old Mosque caretaker does the most amazing cleanest mending of clothes- darning, etc. It was just our group and the place was empty so we tried to make sense of everything that we found written on the wall/ even tried to guess the text behind the wall clock. Everyone clicked selfies/ photographs of the beautiful carvings and jaalis. Opposite the mosque, a little ahead was Dhoomimals' Haveli (Art Gallery fame'), now being used as a primary school on first floor and a godown on the ground floor. 
Embedded image permalinkWe entered a narrow passage opposite Gujarat Namkeens at Chawari Bazar to emerge at Jain Sandwiches, famous for his fruit sandwiches. Two brothers running the shop for over 40-50 years, started by their father. A small little clean place with few chairs and tables to sit. We rested ourselves and waited for our fruit- mix sandwiches with filling of chutney, apples, pomegranates, cucumber, butter,cheese/ paneer bits served with green mint chutney. They also serve coffee, tea etc. 

Once we came out of the shop we had wedding cards' shops all around us. Buildings here displayed the traces of Art- Deco movement, with Swastika, rising sun and other angular, symmetrical geometric forms. One building at Aligarh similarly, was modeled on the old Murphy radio design, said Sohail Sahab.

We walked straight to Shyam Sweets for our Proper breakfast finally! Bedami poori/aloo and chhole sabzi, rounded off with halwa and nagauri. 

Embedded image permalinkPost heavy breakfast, everybody was walking slow. Sohail Sahab decided to sit at one of the shops and explained how the use of shutters led to the decline of street addas and street sellers. Earlier the color and design of doors were markers of shops and extra space outside was used by people to sit/ gossip/ drink tea/ play cards/ for ear cleaners/ faqirs, etc. 
As we came out of the Chawri street, to go towards Jama Masjid, we noticed many hotels on the road opposite Jama Masjid and the pavements full of beddings and Razai sellers. Here, Sohail Sahab gave a long description with examples of how bazars formed a harmonious pattern of related trades. 

We walked from there and reached the steps of Jama Masjid and sat there. Sohail Sahab explained how the Jama Masjid design has been copied and has influenced many subsequent mosques which came up later in the sub-continent (Badshahi Mosque of Lahore, Zeenat ul Masjid, etc). He also talked about the Meena Bazar market, Dargahs of Sufi Sarmad and Hare Bhare Shah with their stories and legends. He left from Jama Masjid and promised to finish the Jain temples and Dariba part post- permissions etc. later in the coming week. 

Most of our Sahapedia friends had left and students' left too, it was just the four of us now! We rested for sometime, went to Dariba to buy water, as my friend did not want to pay Imam's eatery, also offering X-Rays, and other medical tests with samosas/ tea/ sandwiches! (A rare eating outlet, run by Imam and his family, doubling up as a Medical center!) 

Finally, we went inside Jama Masjid post- afternoon prayers. At the gate, I had to make a call to my contact, an important person at office (as I discovered later) to allow us to take our cameras inside and to shoot in the premises. 

We left our shoes near the ticket counter for Minar, as it was less crowded and asked the ticket guy for four tickets. He decided to act difficult and refused the cameras! I again had to call up the Very-Important-Office guy. He came out of his office and told the ticket counter guy, "Madam is from Jamia, let them go"!

He waived off even the ticket fee for us. From this moment on wards, we got the "Son-in-law/ damad wala treatment"(as per my friend!) as we saw how rudely the staff behaved with others. On the first floor we rested, took a few profile shots/ selfies, before we entered the  narrow long dark passage . 

The crowds with young kids, women, men kept climbing. Nobody was regulating the numbers, only one person could stand at one time, and if  somebody came from opposite direction both had to give each other space by breathing in the tummy, crawling up the cold wall to pass. Huffing and puffing we reached the top to see it full of people. One generous family with their two kids decided they had enough of the view and proceeded towards the stairs, so we got ourselves some space to stand and to take out our cameras. The view and the shots from the top were beautiful. Just that it required one of our friends to stand with both hands stretched in Shahrukh Khan pose, to stop us from falling! It was a solo human chain trying to stop any possible misstep! 

Embedded image permalinkWe clicked some photos, selfies were too dangerous to be attempted! We discussed and debated with others, how the authorities could improve it and make it safe for people. At last, as the crowds kept coming up,we decided to climb down. That was another task in itself! Jostling for space, going past fat Aunty, holding her hurting knees, young girls, two of us just made our way out somehow! The other two who were more polite came after fifteen minutes! 
In the warm sun, the Maulana responsible for keeping track of numbers was reading the newspaper, as his helper asked people to show their Minar tickets. I asked him which paper he was reading, he showed two papers- one Avadhnama (Delhi edition) and Roznama Khabrein. Very kind souls, until we saw them shouting at people! 

We decided to take some more photos, before we came back to the main compound. Here unanimously we decided breaking for lunch at Karim's. Few more snaps and we reached Karim's ordered lots of food, and surprisingly finished it all!!

Video links-
Video 1 on Jama Masjid-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pgrn3ty3u8o&t=68s

Tuesday 1 December 2015

Shahjahanabad Shooting Diary- Day 1


We wanted to start our Sahapedia Shahjahanabad module on a high and had scheduled Sohail Hashmi Sahab's heritage walk around Shahjahanabad for our first day. But, we required permission for shooting inside Jama Masjid, and Imam Sahab was out of town so, had to postpone it for a later date. So, it was just the two young camera guys and yours truly to start the work on a foggy afternoon in crowded Shahjahanabad. We had decided to meet near Ashok Chat near Metro station, only that both of them reached Ashok Sweets (not their fault, there are too many Ashoks in the area!).  

We started waking around the Chawari Bazar lane, covering hardware market/ wedding card shops/ eateries and a few houses on the first floors which still had some traces of old architecture left. From the shop opposite Shyam Sweets we bought cold coffee (too sweet, wrong choice, should have taken Dal Halwa, but was thirsty!) 

From there, we walked to the Jama Masjid, gate number three (Dariba Side). They did not allow us to come inside with our cameras and asked us to leave the cameras outside at the gates. I remembered the person I was co-ordinating with at Jama Masjid,so dropped his name. I told them we are in touch with their office and have to meet him regarding permissions, will not shoot. Thankfully, they did not confirm and allowed us to come inside! We were just going to do some recce, and cross over to Meena Bazar market side to cover the Burqa shops.

From outside even with low light, cameras captured a few good shots. I narrated some of what I knew about Sufi Sarmad and Hare Bhare Sahab's story and walked down the stairs towards Meena Bazar. It was fascinating for both of my young friends' as both were new to the city and did not know much about Old Delhi. There is religion, and then there is usually a market around religion!Meena Bazar has shops selling prayer mats, topis, religious literature, Qurans, all sacred and some profane stuff as well, like food/ clothes/ jewellery/ utensils, etc! 

At Meena Bazar, cameras got attention of most people but nobody bothered us. We started at the burqa shop where ready made burqas ranging from Rs. 400- Rs. 5000 were being sold. I asked for the most expensive one, the fabric was not very good. Shopkeeper said, he quotes Rs. 5000 but it would go for Rs. 3000. Even then it was expensive, I told him, he smiled at my observation. Two diverse styles black with black embroidery sober ones were for daily wear, the blingy ones with stone embellishments/ embroidery were for special occasions like wedding, etc. and were more expensive. The one that caught our eye was a leopard/animal print burqa! There was a lane full of burqa shops. A man refused, and told us to shoot elsewhere while most were friendly and happy to pose. Some wanted to know the purpose of it, so I told them I was from Jamia Millia Islamia, a teacher doing research on changing Burqa styles. Ready made burqa business is not very old, shops earlier sold clothes/ suit pieces. Also, the scarves for young girls in different colors is also a recent phenomenon. 

A biryani/ kebab seller, shouted at us, "yahan aa jao, kha bhi lo aur photo bhi le lo" (Come here, eat and also take photos). Though tempted, but we politely declined!

 From Meena Bazar, we walked towards the main Road opposite Red Fort. Now, with all the Metro work going on, its even more chaotic. On push carts, all sorts of woolens for all ages, shoes, fruits were being sold. On the pavement, we noticed some herbs, in various colors and some women were selling them. I asked one woman, she said, its for acne, blemishes and offered some beauty tips. Another woman was selling for strength! I inquired, what strength? This made her angry, she shouted, 'what are you going to do with pictures, we have no money, we are poor and you put our pictures out and make money!' And covered her face. She was selling aphrodisiacs! Here, we noticed a man serving chowmein- with hara dhaniya topping! If dhaniya-mirchi can go with aloo-gosht then why not noodles!!
Another man, almost had a full-fledged dawakhana on the road, many bottles, colored stuff, etc.  On being asked what all that was for, he said, he cured all stomach problems, acidity/ gas, etc. Unconvinced, we walked away.
  
There is a bird market on the road opposite Red Fort. They had beautiful birds, in cages, of course. Some rare ones, even banned, sea gulls and a few other exotic ones. They got angry at the cameramen, and completely refused to allow anything to be shot over there. We knew the reason was the illegal trade of rare birds,so we did not push them. 

I offered next a serene, calm place to shoot. Zeenat ul Masjid or Ghata Masjid (built in 1707, by Aurangzeb's daughter Zeenat un Nissa begum), but the day light was getting dull every minute. So, we hurried our pace and went there to shoot. It was actually naive to think that they will allow us to shoot without raising any objections. There were some homes in the mosque compound. On the ground floor was a school. Mosque was on an elevated platform and resembled Jama Masjid, but on a smaller scale. Birds chirping and with hardly any crowd, we thought we could peacefully do our work here.  Two young boys saw us, and called a gentleman with beard and topi. He looked like the caretaker/ Imam. He shouted, how dare you, start shooting here without any/my permission . We have had problems before, we do not allow random people to come and shoot like this! 
I again, took out my Jamia Millia Islamia badge and told him I teach and we were doing research on architecture/ history. He demanded more papers! My Sahapedia letter was in my car. I went and got it, by this time he had disappeared in one of the houses! Then I had to bang on couple of doors, until he appeared from one of the house. Now, he took me to a small locked room opposite the mosque, which was bare except for prayer mat, few religious books and few Qurans. He asked me to sit, glanced at the papers (did not read!) and said, how difficult it is to run places. The tone was different now. He gave names of few people he knew at Jamia. I told him, it is a big university, I do not know every individual, but if it is somebody from my department, I may know them! Then he said, his cousin runs Al Falah school (recently set up at Okhla, doing well). I said, my Mashallahs. Then, he narrated a few stories of how he has had to face trouble when he allowed a crew to film a few days back and somehow a fire broke out and he had to control everything. I told him, its just the three of us, hardly there for half an hour. Then, he said, he understood  academic research, etc. but could I pay something for Mosque maintenance. Light was getting further dim. I took some money and made a gesture to my friends' to shoot wherever they wanted! 
Now, we could even go inside and could work at our own pace. We got some very good shots. After almost an hour we started back and decided on a more concrete plan, few planned interviews. On our way back, we noticed the boundary wall along Ansari Road, we thought lets get a few shots there. as well, as it was still in good condition There was a board which said it was built by Britishers as an extension to Old City wall to keep eye. Probably, a reason why it was still standing intact. But, we still climbed up. Walked around, but since it was built by the British, I was not interested. The slope was steep. My fellow friends remarked on my wedge-heel shoes. They told me to wear proper shoes with support, next time I come for shooting!        


   

Friday 13 November 2015

Pottery Classes at Tihar Jail

 Tihar Jail in its various initiatives to get its inmates' to learn new crafts called our Pottery teacher Rajesh Srivastava to teach them for six months some years back. This write up is based on his experience there, which he shared with us recently. 

As an artist he knows his craft, as a teacher he is encouraging, but as a person he is full of wisdom. A teacher should always lead by example, in terms of morality and righteousness, so that the words of wisdom do not sound hollow. He is a fine teacher in words and deeds. 

He talked about his rapport with criminals there and things he saw at Tihar. There are three levels of security, even then the Rs.2 packet of Tobacco reaches inside and sells for Rs. 100 or more. 

Usually, everybody finishes dinner by sunset. Food is freshly made at the big Tihar canteen. If somebody wants to eat late, and wants to heat their food then they follow a interesting process. They wear clothes of Markeene (thick cloth, off whitish in color) and tear a part from it. Then this piece of cloth is rolled and then shown to the bulb until it catches fire. This fire is used to do tadka of onion, tomato etc on dal/sabzi!

The criminals respected their pottery teacher, so much that they offered to buy him a car (as he travels by bus), even a TV for his studio.  He had to strictly say No, to their offers and of getting him settled at Mumbai, with their Big Brother.In return, he always treated them with respect and got respect in return. The criminals have even come to visit the studios, some he even recommended for manual jobs but they gave up. He counselled them to lead the "right" life, but virtuousness brings with it lots of hard work and less money for which they were not ready, as some of them even tried to lead a simple life, but gave up soon after.   As he says, "sharafat ki zindgi jeena asaan nahi hai, kaam karna padta hai, aur mehnat ka paisa bhi nahi milta hai"  Tihar is a hard place and it does not reform anybody, in fact inside Tihar the criminals make contacts and the business grows manifold! The Jailor often warned him that these people are hardened criminals, one should not get too friendly with them. But, they all called him, "Sir", and no harm came in all these years, except for the offers that if anybody messes or troubles him, he has very "useful friends"!

The Tihar Jail products are most superior and pure, according to him. They do not get anything inside, so they cannot mix any substance in them. Thus, the Mustard oil is the purest, and the furniture if it says, teak for wood, can be trusted on the ingredients/ things used. The craftsmanship or design may not be much, but the stuff would be good.   

(Based on narrative shared by Rajesh Srivastava, Pottery Teacher at Delhi Blue Pottery Trust) 

Thursday 5 November 2015

Adhoore

Pa kar khone ka 
malaal alag hota hai
Kuch lafzo me bayaan karna
Kuch yun hi chhod dena
Kabhi gehri aah lekar
Ankh se gira dena
Kabhi kisi se keh dena
Kahin kisi se sun lena
Zikr us Mohabbat ka
Fikr us Musafir ki
Dukh us adhoore Safar ka!!


Tumko yaad hai
Jab balcony me baith kar
Humne dekhi thi barish
Aur samne tha
Woh adhoora makan
Ab
Woh makan poora hai
Adhoore hain
Hum!!

Saturday 31 October 2015

Sardi ka Mausam


Suna hai is saal Sardi me
Raat aur bhi gehri syaah hogi
Aur itni ghani Dhund
ke kuch dikhayi dega
na sujhayi..
na sach
na jhoot
na apne
na paraye
na rishta
na aetbar
Jazbo ke sath
har cheez par hogi
barf ki chadar 


Woh chai ki
garam garam chuski ke sath
moongphali ke chhilkon ke dher
Andhero ke saaye
maazi ki tasveero par lehrate hain
ab in tasveeron ke rang
ud gaye hain
aur frame ko deemak kha gayi hai

Sawan ka sailab
le gaya baha kar
ghar mera
aur thand aisi padi
ke na sirf log barf hue
balke rishte bhi jam gaye

Dhoop ki garmi
pighla deti barf ko magar
umar bhar ke liye
lag gaya grahan
suraj ko
aur jeevan me ab
thehar gaya hai
sardi ka mausam!

Friday 16 October 2015

My Experiences as a Teacher at Jamia Millia Islamia


I studied and finished my PhD from Department of Sociology, Jamia Millia Islamia. It is one of the only institutions in India, which offers a direct PhD post-Master's. Jamia is often seen as a poor cousin of classy Delhi University and the intellectuals of JNU! Often those who cannot get through both these places, as a last option against giving up studies, take admission here. 

 Presently, it is my third year of teaching here. I taught students as a PhD scholar and now teaching as a Guest Faculty (permanent posts are hard to get in these times)! I have taught (as Visiting Faculty in other instituions) and worked (as Researcher) at other places, but its something about Jamia students that I can stay jobless for three months (during summer holidays) and wait, to continue teaching here. The students at Jamia come from diverse backgrounds. Some come from private schools at under-Graduate level and at post-Graduate level from DU colleges. Those are the English speaking ones. Others can come from government schools or Madarsas. Both Hindi and Urdu mediums co-exist with English here. Often we also have international students from Iran, CIS countries, Japan, Nigeria, Ghana, etc. I find it very fascinating that Jamia has this open arms' attitude and a special empathy for students' coming from interiors of Bihar/ UP, etc. (similar to JNU ethos). Although, it started as a minority institution for Muslims, but there are as many students' from other communities as well. 

 Students' are also probably the most obedient that I have seen (in comparison to other places that I have taught, do not have to be reminded not to use mobile phones in class). The old world Ustad-Shagird camaraderie may not be there in true sense, but still something close to that respect can still be witnessed.  As teachers it can be a challenge to teach this diverse mix of Eng-Hindi-Urdu students. It is not just the language backgrounds, that corresponds with class and often regions (Delhi/non-Delhi, rural/urban), that they may come from. One has to reach a common platform where you have to simplify your teaching enough to make the students' understand who have had different backgrounds (Sports quota included) but also interesting enough for those who may have studied it before. This is especially true for  the cases where Sociology is taught as a Subsidiary paper for Tourism/Management/Psychology/Hindi/Urdu/Islamic Studies/Geography/History, etc. Number of students here often can go up to 50 plus. It is much more easy to teach students' from one's own department because they know the basics. But, it is in teaching the Subsidiary Paper students' and BA (pass) students' that I have had most interesting experiences.

 I taught a Subsidiary Paper on Gender and Society last year and was discussing the pay differentials for both men & women, and the aspect of unpaid domestic work. One of the Management student got up to say, but women do get "gifts". I asked him, men only work five days, 9-5, get holidays for weekends/ festivals, etc. but at the end of month get a "shirt" as gift from employer, shouldn't it be sufficient for them!     
 Often with those coming from Madarsa background, the debates in class can go to Theology! I had a Madrassa student, (Hafiz too), who asked questions in every class, every topic was problematic. Only difference, when I finished my semester, he was asking questions about French Revolution and Engels, and not about religion! 
Girls' are often more studious and most vocal when they have to reply to questions. But, it is often the boys who raise serious questions about theology. I cannot remember a single instance where any girl student asked any question related to religion. It can also get confusing to recognise girl students' behind full face veils/ abayas.
   
 This semester, in my second class only a student from Mewat made a presentation on "Saudi as an ideal society". Now, challenge as a teacher is not just to complete given syllabus within the three months of semester, but also to slowly make him understand and introduce him to concepts like democracy, cultural pluralism, etc.  

Often students' come to discuss personal problems. One of my very sincere student, came one day and almost in tears, said, she was finding it difficult to continue studies. On further probing, she said, both her parents are blind. She has to take care of household chores, look after younger brother's college studies, etc. She travels on the most crowded buses where sexual harassment is rampant, often wallets, mobile phones get stolen. Recently, she lost her wallet in which she was carrying money for father's medicines. On my part, I could offer her some random work and pay her an amount, offered to drop her back, but that cannot be a solution. There are many more like her coming from difficult circumstances for whom just commuting everyday for hours in crowded buses is a challenge. Their courage and determination to get themselves educated is admirable, and students like these are not just restricted to Jamia, but can be found all across the country.    

   

Thursday 15 October 2015

My Wish

I have my right to remain silent 
Not answer any questions..
Or talk as much as I want
Tell my story to everybody or
to nobody at all
then fall down
Tired & Broken
To rise Again
Never to speak 
To stop the cycle of pain
To lighten the burden 
To break all bonds
To finish the unsaid
To end it all. 

Saturday 3 October 2015

The 'Othering' of the 'Self'


Ajab do raha hai
yeh rishte ka
Woh rishta jisko kabhi
nahi kiya darj kisi register me
suni dil ki
kari dil ki..

Rishte par bharosa tha
ke khatam hoga
umar ke sath
chalega saans ke sath
aur liya bhi
waise hi be-parvaai se
jaise lete hain saans!

Jab rishta kho gaya
to laga jeevan
samapt ho gaya
kaise zinda
reh sakte the hum
kaise samna karte
unka jo dete the misaal hamari
kehte the 'understanding' kamal hamari
kya kehte logo se
mohabbat khatam ho gayi
'complications' ho jaati hain
'personal problems' ho jaati hain!

Ab jakar lagwana hoga thappa sarkari
jahan kabhi judne ka record na banaya
wahan rishta todne ki arzi deni hogi!
Likhwana hoga sarkari kagaz par
saboot/ gawah ke sath
Us rishte ke tootne ka sach
jo kanoonan kabhi bana hi nahi!

Rishte dil ke hote hain
jab dil badal gaya
to kya wohi azeeyat* kaafi nahi
kyun deni hogi safai
kyun?kaise?kab ki?
Arzi lagayen
Mai-baap khatam kar do
iss dor ko
kaat do yahin beech se
rok do hamari saans yahin par!
Kya euthanesia ka bhi same process/procedure hai??

(*muddat- period, *azeeyat- takleef)

Friday 18 September 2015

Tanhayee


Kai baar yeh ehad*
khud se toda hai
ke azeeyat* dene wali socho
ko ab na socha karenge hum
Magar shaam dhalte hi
purane dost ki tarah
yeh aa jati hain haath thame
gale me baahen daale
tanhai ko abaad karne
khala ko bharne


kaash ke tanhai ko
is dard ko
bhej sakte
kisi kagaz par utaar kar tumko
magar isko
kagaz par utarna
mumkin hi nahi
kaali raat ke jaise
kagaz par phel jati hain
na koi lafz
na koi rang
jaise hamari kismat
bilkul syaah..

ek sannata
hota hai chaarsoo*
usme goonjti rehti hai tumhari
awaaz aur uske saaye
aur chalta rehta hai
deewar par guzre waqto ka video
us sabki tarah jo band hai
tumhare zehen ke camera me!


(*ehad- waada
azeeyat- extreme pain
khala- void
syaah- kala
charsoo*- chaaron taraf)

Tuesday 8 September 2015

Suni - Sunayi



Sune hain tumhare kisse- kahaniyan jana
Jab se tark e talluq* se guzre hain hum jana
suna hai badi sukoon ki neend sote ho
suna hai ab gussa nahi hote ho
suna hai koi tees kisi khoyi mohabbat ki nahi baqi
suna hai aankh me nami ab nahi aati
suna hai apne rishte ka sach auro se
suna hai sab jhooth tha,dikhawa tha
suna hai humne ke sab ek bahlawa tha
suna hai humne ke yun hi hona likha tha
suna hai humne ke sab faisla hamara tha


Bahut kuch kehne ko abhi bhi hai baaqi jana
dil ki zuban band aur ankhon me hai paani jana
suna hai khamosh jazbo ki apni zuban  hoti hai
sunaa hai kuch ghadiyan badi be-imaan hoti hain
suna hai humne kai baaton ko jo be-yakeen lagti hain
suna hai humne tum ko chahaten badi haseen lagti hain

Jurm ka aetraaf* laga hai humko yeh jana
ke mohabbat ki hai saza mili hamein jana
suna hai iss jurm ki maafi nahi hoti hai
suna hai sazaye maut bhi kaafi nahi hoti hai
suna hai bas ek kaal kothri numa zindgi hoti hai
suna hai tanhayee ki azeeyat* shadeed* hoti hai

Yeh sab suni sunayi baatein ajab lagti hain
Yaaden sab sayebaan* si lagti hain
Tumko mubarak tumhari khushi jana
Humko dard me hai muskurana jana
Kasoor hamara saza ke qabil tha jana
Jab jurm mohabbat tha saza kismat thi jana ...


*tark e talluq- breaking of relations
*aetraaf- confession
*azeeyat- pain
*shadeed- extreme
*sayeban- shade

Monday 31 August 2015

Silently Shouting


I want to scream with all my might
with all my energy fight
and then not say a word..
empty all the spoken words,
say nothing at all..
like a silent yearning
like a little tug at the heart
like an old prayer which never went far
like a fallen star
you will remember me
in the moonless quiet night
without a word or sight..
walking on my toes
I will come again
and my screams will be louder
louder than anything you may have heard before
louder than the loudest volcano
louder than the loudest sound
but, it will not matter to you
I may cry or shout
but you will not hear me
I am forever mute to you!



Thursday 27 August 2015

Afternoon Meetings with RSS Pracharak


 We had a Participatory Sociology paper during our Master's program where we had to do a project, involving some fieldwork along with literature review. I had then read 'Religious Nationalism Confronts Secular State' (1993) by Mark Juergensmeyer, who examined this scenario on a global scale, apart from Peter van der Veer's Religious Nationalism (1994) who looked at it in the Indian context. I decided to do a project on 'Religious Nationalism' and planned to interview RSS and Jamaat e Islami people and visit their offices to understand their ideologies better. It was my first year of Post Graduation and I was very excited about my first ever research project in life! 

I got Delhi RSS office's Jhandewalan number and called them. The person on the other end was courteous, I decided to change my name to Rashmi and told him I was a journalism student doing a project and would like to speak to somebody who can give details of RSS work. I assured myself, the lie was to minimize bias, and to get absolutely true views. He suggested the name of a senior guy and gave me an appointment for the afternoon next day. 

It was early winters. Thankfully, my family has always been very supportive of me and did not create any fuss about me, a Muslim girl visiting a Hindu fundamentalists' den! I had some butterflies in my stomach.  I informed, my project supervisor teacher and a couple of friends that if I do not come back by that evening, where they should look for the body! (It was just a couple of months before Gujarat riots broke out). 

As my auto-rickshaw dropped me at Jhandewalan, I asked a few passers by for directions to RSS office. And, everybody knew (except me!). Anyways, as I entered this huge courtyard and went up to the Reception office, it had a map of India - not the map we use, but the Akhand Bharat map with territories extending beyond the present borders. There were only men, not a single woman in sight (not even a cleaner/sweeper)!

I introduced myself with my false identity and told them about the appointment.  A man took me through the neatly lined rows of rooms to a room on the first floor. This man was in his fifties, grey hair, clean shaven and quite fit for his age. He asked me to sit, the room was small but clean. It had a bed, table, some chairs and an almirah for books (as far as I can remember!). The Akhand Bharat map  was pasted on his wall as well.  

 He asked me my name, my address, my family background, educational qualification (being from Hindu College, DU helped!) and my course details. I told him I was a Jamia Millia Islamia student. I was worried, that he might ask for some ID card, etc. but he was too polite to ask. He was a Maharashtrian, who spoke very fluent Hindi. He started with the glorious history of RSS and the social work that they do, the discipline they follow. The chai came. (what if there was something in the chai, I thought but still drank. It was good). Since, it was the first meeting I just touched upon the theme of Religious Nationalism and what he thought of it. He said, RSS opposed Partition which was based on religion but then why Akhand Bharat, why partiality to Nepal, a Hindu state, why oppose secularism, I asked. He tried to give a few reasons for it, the usual-secularism as Muslim appeasement, Haj subsidy, Bangladeshi influx, Uniform Civil Code, condition of Muslim women, polygamy, etc. My one hour was almost over and other visitors started coming in. The arguments that he was making with the (fudged) data, if I was not a Muslim or did not know better, I would have converted too (which he tried to do very convincingly).
He was very articulate probably the reason why they had sent me to him, a popular man for sure. I asked him for the next appointment, which I got after two days.  

 The next time, I was more confident, I went to the reception and told them his name. A man tried to help, but I told him I knew my way. His doors were open and there was another elderly man with whom he was having an animated discussion. He asked me to sit on the other chair and kept talking to the other man. In between he looked at me as he made his point and I nodded my head. The other man left soon afterwards. Then, he told me that he was his friend and Vice Chancellor of a University (cannot remember the name of central government university honestly!) and he often visited RSS office. I was shocked and wished if I had known earlier, I would have asked a few questions! 

I started with a question on Muslims. He went deep into the history about Muslim mis-rule and referred me to a map which showed all 'disputed sites' where he claimed Muslims had destroyed and made their mosques and will be reclaimed (not just Ayodhya, Mathura, Kashi). The excesses Muslim kings had committed. The way Muslim population is growing (which I had countered that depends on and differs according to classes amongst Muslims) but he just had so many numbers and so much data to counter back that it was futile to argue. He just kept giving me data from different sources (his sources!) In between came the chai and some biscuits,which I took unhesitatingly this time. 

 I got tired of his usual Muslim bashing so changed it to his personal life. He talked about his family, his parents were dead, siblings were not in touch, RSS was the only family now. He had done his Master's in Political Science (not surprising at all, as his grasp over laws/ governance was very good!) I asked him if he missed having a family. He said, RSS was his family, he lived a disciplined life of a soldier. He was a vegetarian (surprise, surprise!). I took his leave and asked for a final appointment. 
    
The final visit was again in his room. This time chai came early. I started with pleasantries and came straight to the topic of Muslims.' He told me, 'you are young, you do not know the real them as yet'. I wanted to shout, 'I am one myself', but kept my mouth shut. I tried to reason that I know enough Muslims being in Jamia that all his prejudices I can explain. He just needed to know them better. (Thankfully, by that time 'Love Jihad' was not in fashion or he would have warned me against it!)

By the third visit, despite his biased views I had begun to like him. He was no more the RSS wala but 'Ashutosh'* ji. As a person, he was soft spoken, educated, respectful towards women and as I liked to believe "misguided" by RSS's entire anti-Muslim propaganda. But, it would have been interesting to see if he remained as courteous and polite if I had told him my real name and identity.  

We already have seen and heard enough of RSS walas on Television debates that there was nothing 'new' that I found out. Maybe, they are all taught the same thing through their books and training at their shakhas and do not want to see the 'other' as human. Bigotry is difficult to practice when you know people personally. 'Humanizing' the fundamentalist did happen on a very personal level for me. 

Later, Gujarat Riots broke out and all those men brain washed with hatred killed, burnt, raped and abused Muslim men and women. It was very disappointing and disturbing. I spoke to my teacher at great length about the shallowness of these ideologies.     

  And, after that when I went to speak to Jamaat e Islami people, it was again the other end of the spectrum. There is no "humanizing" the 'other'. The 'other' is what defines 'them', this hatred will continue as its more a question for political survival for both, religion is just a tool.  

 (*name changed)
(Based on the fieldwork done many years back)


Monday 24 August 2015

Pottery School - Delhi Blue Pottery Trust


I was always fascinated by pottery, so I decided to finally learn it a few days back. A friend's friend had done a course from Delhi's famous pottery school situated at Delhi Blue Apartments near Safdarjung Hospital next to AIIMS Trauma Center.

 I spoke to them over the phone, it was a beginner's six months course and you could pay the fees in two installments. The moment I went to register I was taken in by the beautifully crafted things that were all over the place. I could hear Jagjit Singh ghazals in the background. Rajesh Srivastav, the instructor, talented ceramic artist himself, (from BHU) took the fees and gave the schedule (two days a week,three hour long class), along with a copy of book on Pottery, published by Delhi Blue Pottery Trust. He keeps a keen eye on everyone's wheels and answers/ explains patiently all the questions by the students often with a humorous quip!  

Once, I joined I was asked to make masks (as my joining co-incided with Mask making workshop) which meant working with the mud but no wheel, and giving it different facial shapes. By the time I made my third mask, it came out well, on which some improvements were done by Rajesh ji, with an interesting remark, "art is flawed, it should not be perfect." 

The next week started with understanding and knowing the craft of pottery. I was asked to "knead the dough" properly. Then came the wheel. The dough, finely rounded after kneading, goes on the wheel (electric wheel). It has to be centered on the wheel, setting the speed of the wheel is important while making peaks or plateaus of the mitti on the wheel. It is a beautiful process, where you keep adding water, and see how the touch of different fingers shapes it differently. Once learner finishes in the stipulated time of three hours, another ten minutes are dedicated to cleaning the wheel so that next learner can start on it, without the fuss of cleaning. 

 The afternoon tea is the time when everybody gathers together, chats, share stories or just plain gossip at times, mostly with Rajesh ji who is sometimes joined by the other instructor, Preeti ji.
   
The seniors who have been learning here, ranging from one to two plus years, are usually very helpful with tips (Three years is when you graduate out of the school). The students can buy their creations at nominal rates (based on the measurement in weight of the object). My class is an all-women class (ordinary men do not learn pottery it seems, delicate art modern men cannot handle the required patience for the craft!). But, those men who do come to learn turn out to be fast and better learners, according to Rajesh ji.

One has to carry an apron for the class, as whatever one wears gets soiled by the mud. I heard interesting stories on how girls come all nicely dressed but after a week, start coming in rough clothes. Even with an apron, clothes do get spoiled. But, nobody bothers about the clothes as sitting on the wheel can take you on a journey of another world, as mud through your fingers takes different and beautiful shapes. 

It is an extremely therapeutic craft in today's stressful lives. One understands how mitti can be a metaphor for our lives. On the circle (wheel) of life, if the center (basics/core) is not strong the shape will not come out well. The touch of different fingers (circumstances) changes the shape of vessel. But, it is only when it goes into the furnace that it becomes strong!

Tuesday 18 August 2015

Shehar


Jab bhi mayoos hue
ek meherban ma ki baahon ki tarah 
sambhala tha iss shehar ne mujhe
gudaz daman se
apne sab raste phela diye the
Jahan chaho chale jao
Apni manzil chun lo...

Ab Ma boodhi ho gayi hai
zimmedari zyada lagti hai
iski nayi imaaraten bhi khandhar lagti hain
aur iske khandharo se
sab bad-roohen aur jinn 
Is cement ke jungle ko chhod gaye hain 
Jinno ko logo ke paigham aane band ho gaye the
Na jaane log sayane ho gaye the ya Jinn
Suna hai unse veerani bardasht na hui!

Shehar ki sadko pe daudte bhagte bashinde
ankhon me bechaini basaye phirte hain  
yeh shehar ke pollution ka dhuaan hai
ya qatal hue armano ka! 

khwaishon ke jungle me
hamari bhi qismat aisi nikli
ke in rasto pe
dil ki vahshat kam na hui
aur paon ke nishan
chunte chunte 
peechha karte rahe
tumhari yaadon ka
un sookhe patto ka
jinko kabhi hara 
daali par laga dekha tha
jinse ose ki boondein 
amrit ki tarah hum ne pee thi
ab daali se gir kar 
be-jaan hawa me udte phirte hain
kuch hamari hi tarah 
awara se be-misraf* se!

Dariya ko ufaan* par dekhne
hum kitni duur tak gaye the
ab woh dariya utar gaya hai..
uska paani gadla hai
aur suna hai iss baar bada sakht sookha pada hai!
woh phalwala jiske aam khatte the
aur tumne sab ke sab
apne hath se mujhe khila diye the
ab chappal seeta mila tha
phalo ka mausam chala gaya hai..

Omlette wala to 
abhi tak intezar me hai
ke kab tum usko milne phir jaoge

usko pata nahi tumhari aadat ka
tum yunhi logo ko aas de diya karte ho
ummeed baant diya karte ho
iss shehar ki tarah
wohi kam aqal tha jo aetbaar kar baitha! 
(be-misraf - purposeless)(*ufaan- river in spate)

Beedi Peeti Aurat

 बीड़ी पीती औरत   अंकुश लगती है घूरती निगाहों को समाज नकारता है कुढ़ता है उसकी बेईमानी पर   उसके कर्त्तव्य याद दिलाता है   ये उसका हक़ नहीं   इ...